Start at Kaal Bhairav: The Traditional Order of Temple Visits Every Kashi Pilgrim Should Know
Most first-time visitors to Varanasi head straight for Kashi Vishwanath. Ask any old Banarasi, however, and you will hear that the sequence of a Kashi pilgrimage matters as much as the destinations — and that the circuit properly begins somewhere else entirely. Tradition holds that a pilgrim should first present themselves at the Kaal Bhairav temple, near Vishweshwarganj. Kaal Bhairav is revered as the Kotwal of Kashi — the guardian and magistrate of the city — and devotees seek his permission before proceeding. The black protective thread tied at his shrine is one of the most recognisable markers of a completed Kashi visit, and the lane leading to the temple is worth walking slowly for its old shopfronts alone. Only then does the route turn towards Shri Kashi Vishwanath Dham. Two rituals here reward advance planning: the Mangal Aarti in the pre-dawn hours, when the temple is at its quietest and most atmospheric, and the Shayan Aarti late at night, when the deity is ceremonially put to rest. Both require arriving well ahead of time. Beyond the two best-known shrines, the circuit opens into a set of temples that many visitors miss. Mrityunjay Mahadev, known for the well in its courtyard fed by underground streams, is associated with health and healing. Vishalakshi temple, in the Mir Ghat area, is counted among the Shakti Peethas. Gauri Kedareshwar at Kedar Ghat carries a distinctly southern character in its rituals and its crowd. Close the loop at the river — Dashashwamedh for the evening aarti, Namo Ghat for open riverfront views, Manikarnika for quiet reflection — and finish, as Banaras insists, with a folded paan.
Compiled by HelloBanaras from public sources: