Crumbling Havelis and Street Art at Shivala-Meer Ghat

The stretch between Shivala and Meer Ghat is a living museum nobody talks about. Crumbling 18th-century havelis with carved wooden balconies sit beside contemporary street murals painted by international artists. Walk slowly through the back lanes in the morning when light pours through the narrow gaps. Carry a wide-angle lens — the lane-to-river vistas are extraordinary.